Going through this wonderful collection of pictures of British era Simla and modern Shimla city, you are likely see the place more than just a hill station to chill with your folks. Photographer Nishant Gupta collected some old images of Shimla and spent lot of time capturing images of modern Shimla from exactly the same perspectives and angles with which the old photographs were captured. The results were incredible.
Shimla has very rich history, reminiscent of which still stands as historical creations that came into existence during British colonial rule. Shimla, the imperial summer capital, was once the centre of power from where one-fifth of humanity was ruled.
Shimla was also called ‘Chotti Vilaayat’ or ‘Little England’ owing to the fact that Britain and Shimla shared same climatic conditions.
Shimla was a paradise where most of the British officers and guests spent their summers, away from scorching sun in plains. Shimla was officially founded in 1864 and was built on top of seven hills namely: Inverarm Hill, Observatory Hill, Prospect Hill, Summer Hill, Bantony Hill, Elysium Hill and Jakhoo Hill.
It didn’t take much time before Shimla or Simla was declared centre of British colonial rule. A number of historical decisions were made in Shimla including disastrous Anglo-Afghan wars.
In 1906, to make Shimla easily accessible, British built what is known as an engineering marvel in the world- Kalka-Shimla Railway track, which consist of 102 tunnels (originally 107) and 806 bridges. It was also called the “British Jewel of the Orient”. The track was declared UNESCO world heritage site in 2008.
The British were so charmed that they planned and built Shimla meticulously and adored it with historic buildings made in British architecture, like Town Hall, Christ Church, Gorton Castel, Viceregal Lodge (now Indian Institute of Advance Studies), the Willow Bank and so on.
Present day administration of Shimla is still scavenging on the infrastructure British had built. The government could not add much as marvelous as these structures, railway track or water supply system. Instead, one by one these structures are either being damaged due to carelessness or are being gutted by fire, like the Gorton Castle, the Railway Board Building, Mito Court etc.
Also Read : Fire engulfs heritage Shimla Gorton Castle (AG Office) : In Pictures
Now, Shimla is a congested and crowded place like other cities. Leaking sewerage and water supply pipes, garbage either spread all over Shimla city or being burnt in open, wrecked roads and blocked, stinking drains, deforestation for over-construction of luxury apartments, resorts or commercial buildings etc. have become trademarks of it.
But, you can seek some relief by time traveling into imperial Shimla through comparison of some of the images compiled for you. Also, in last few photographs you can see old pictures of Dagshai and Kumarhatti railway stations.
We are very thankful to Nishant Gupta, who provided us with the images and information.
Christ Church, Shimla
Christ Church, Shimla
The old one is from the coronation day service of King Edward VII in 1902, which was celebrated here by Lord Duffrin, the Governor General of India. The Church building still remains intact but the picture reflects on the lifestyle during that era, especially clothing and dressing styles. People in white clothing used to be official coolies of the British and those in black were the non-employees.
Bank Buildings, Mall Road, Shimla
The picture shows the Town Hall building, upper floors of which were demolished later due to some architectural fault.
The Ridge, Shimla
The Town Hall building in the old picture was constructed in 1860 by British to carry out various administrative tasks. Initially, the Gaiety Theater was also a part of the Town Hall, but upper floors of Town Hall were later damaged due to some architectural fault, therefore, the upper floors had to be reconstructed in 1910. Clearly visible in the pictures, present structure is just faded shadow of the actual one.
Christ Church, Shimla
One of the rare pics of British Shimla, this picture shows a market in front of the church that was called the ‘Upper Bazaar’ and area below it was called the ‘Lower Bazaar’. All the shops were later gutted by a fire breakout. British authorities did not allow reconstruction, hence, now there is a wide empty space in front of the Church. That also explains why the church was constructed behind this wide space and not in the middle.
Scandal Point Shimla
The mystery behind the true story of Scandal Point continues. The most common story told about the Scandal Point was that of the Maharaja of Patiala, Bhupinder Singh, eloping with the British Viceroy’s daughter in 1892. He was banned by the British from entering Shimla. So, he constructed a summer capital for himself at a small village called Chail. And the place of intersection of the Ridge and the Mall, where he eloped with her, came to be called as Scandal Point. However, there are no solid evidences to support this story.
Scandal Point, Shimla
The resemblance in structures shown in the old and the new picture are clearly visible and nothing much has changed. These shops either belonged to the Britishers or the wealthy personalities, who also owned shops in Connaught place, Delhi, perhaps.
The Mall, Shimla
Picture on the left belongs to late 1880s and shows the Lawries Hotel building at the end of the road. The building was gutted by a fire and the space was converted into the Rani Jhansi Park in 1937. The Lawries was one of the prime hotels of the city at that time.While, some of the shops on the left of the picture remains similar in built, some others were erected later.
Hotel Willow Bank, Shimla
Established in 1871, the Willows Banks was originally owned by Arthur James Craddock, ” the Architect and Builder of Shimla”. As a tribute to him the building was redesigned into a famous Hotel, equipped with all modern amenities and comforts.
The old hotel building now stands almost abandoned and a newer one was built adjacent to it. The road visibile on the left connected Kelvin Grove, Formerly Head Quarter of the Royal Air Force situated on the lower slope of Jakhu Hill with the main road. Kelvin Grove was built by Mr. Campbell in 1850. Initially, it used to serve as general store, and later in 1865 it housed the ‘United Bank of India’.
Town Hall, Shimla
The building, constructed in 1908 in the half-timbered Tudor style-all-wooden frames and shingled eaves, currently houses the Shimla Municipal Corporation.
Bank Building, Mall Road, Shimla
Post Office and Bank Buildings, the Mall Road, Shimla
The pictures show the post office & bank buildings. The Shimla GPO building which finds place in the first set of postal heritage buildings was established in the year 1883 and is located on the famous Mall Road here. The site was initially known as “Conny Lodge” and was purchased from one Mr Peterson in early 1880s. Mr F. Dalton was the first Postmaster of Shimla (then Simla) GPO and Mr A.K. Hazari was the first Postmaster of Indian origin after independence. The clock on the left has disappeared but conical shape of the Bank Buildings has been maintained.
Scandal Point Shimla
The place looks almost unrecognisable.
Mary Delanty, daughter of Patrick Delanty, was born in 1873 and was married to George Oswald Weston on April 20, 1892 in Rawalpindi. She died on December 10, 1909.
It’s one the saddest photographs in this collection. Mary was pregnant at the time of her death, so her husband built this statue made from pure white marble. The statue was intact and was in good condition until some locals spread a rumor claiming that keeping a piece of the statue at home will help ladies conceive. As a result of it, this memorial appears nothing more than ruins. It’s really disheartening to witness such waste.
Kumarhatti-Dagshai Railway Station
There is railway station on the Kalka-Simla line at Kumar Hatti, from where Dagshai is about 1.5 kilometers uphill.
Dharampur Railway Station
The picture on the left is taken in 1910s, a few years after its construction in 1900. Amazingly, not much has changed except the buildings in the background.
Army Officer’s Quarters, Dagshai
The person in this picture is Major Sir Broderick Hartwell, at the sports day at Dagshai in 1917. Behind is the Army Officer’s Quarter Building during the times when Dagshai used to be a British cantonment. Dagshai, one of the oldest cantonment towns in the Solan district, was founded in 1847 by the East India Company by securing free of cost five villages namely, Dabbi, Badhtiala, Chunawad, Jawag and Dagshai, from Maharaja of Patiala aka Bhupinder Singh of Patiala. Now, Dagshai serves as a cantonment for Indian Army and the building hosts the Dagshai Army Public School.
Army Officer’s Quarters, Dagshai -II
The Andaman Islands may house the most popular cellular jail in India but there is a second lesser-known cellular jail in North India – Dagshai. The old picture shows the Army Officer’s Quarters Building in 1930. The soldier in this picture belonged to 5th Northumberland Fusiliers. While the architecture remains intact, the left most window can bee seen closed with bricks in the picture on the right.
All credits to the various British photographers like Samual Bourne, Underwood & Underwood Company and various other unknown photographers for black & white photographs.
In Pictures: Republic Day 2018 celebrations at Shimla Ridge
Shimla: As usual, like rest of the nation, Himachal Pradesh also observed India’s 69th Republic Day on January 26, 2018. Himachal’s best parade and a showcase of tableaus by various government institutions are believed to be held in the capital city Shimla.
This year, the governor took the salute, which was followed by cultural activities.
Though we are little late in posting, still you might like the pictures of the Republic Day 2018 celebrations at the historic Ridge Maidan of Shimla, exclusively clicked by Himachal Watcher for its readers.
The public did gather this year as well like it has been doing for the last 69 years. Most of the educated people, especially the newer generation might have read all about the 26 January 1950 in their history lessons without realizing the purpose of spending every year on the arrangement of such an expensive show.
This day is special for the armed forces, police, and even the National Cadet Core contingent that take part in the parade. They rehearse and compete to find a place in this parade as it is considered an honour.
However, a crowd of commoners celebrates only the holiday they receive on this day.
It is the day of the people. The Independence Day and Republic day are the days when the people are supposed to celebrate the fact that India had united to overthrow the centuries-old British colonial rule to claim the very freedom we cherish and enjoy today.
On this day we are supposed to express gratitude to the freedom fighters that we are not slaves anymore.
The Republic Day is special because it was the day India received its constitutional framework and the people were given the true power of the country through the written constitution, which is the longest in the world.
India was in a hurry and wanted to incorporate the best components of the natural justice and rights, which is why it borrowed most of the components from countries like United States of America, United Kindom, France, Russia etc.
This constitution is the handbook of common people, and it is the only power they possess for the protection of their democratic rights. As a very bitter truth, we are enjoying freedom in India but corruption has corroded the true protocol. Freedom can be manipulated through political power, wealth and influence.
Anyway, now we put a full stop to our verbose expression of our comprehension about the symbolic meaning of the Republic Day celebrations to let you view more visuals in high-resolution pictures.
There is a lot about the tableau showcase that doesn’t match with the ground reality like waste management, rainwater harvesting, metalled roads, renewable energy etc.
For instance, the tableau of the Shimla Municipal Corporation said ‘Waste to Energy’ while things are more like ‘Waste to Air Pollution’ as the corporation and residents continue to burn a huge amount of daily garbage in open. The sanitation workers are not even regular.
However, we will highlight these tableaus separately later. For now, enjoy the images.
All Photos: Tarun Sharma/ Himachal Watcher
Pictures from swearing-in ceremony of Himachal’s new Chief Minister
Shimla: With the swearing-in ceremony concluding yesterday, Himachal Pradesh received its new government under the leadership of the Chief Minister Jairam Thakur of the Bhartiya Janata Party.
Himachal Watcher has a few images that we thought might interest our readers, especially those who missed the ceremony held on December 27 on the historic Shimla Ridge Maidan with a great pomp and show.
The new Chief Minister swung into action immediately after taking the oath of the office and secrecy and held his first meeting with the 12-membered cabinetYou can read the decisions taken by the cabinet here
Though Jairam Thakur has expressed his wish to abolish the VIP culture, his own oath-taking ceremony remained a display of political strength and extravagant expenditures on facilitation of not only the Prime Minister, Narendra Modi, but also for his big guns including Union Ministers and Chief Ministers of several states.
Does it make sense for a state to spend on grand ceremonies when it is debt-ridden?
We hope there are others who would accede to the idea of adopting simplicity while performing such formalities. However, this perspective of ours can’t be forced on anyone.
So, either way, these images will interest you. There was massive crowd comprising BJP supporters and Modi fans. Remember, Mr Modi and BJP have become two different identities within the party. In Himachal, the people seem to have voted for Modi, not for the BJP.
Otherwise, why would people elect BJP but reject its Chief Ministerial candidate and party president of the State BJP?
All HW Photo: Tarun Sharma
Triund: Where the sky romances with mountains and wind plays music – a travelog
If you are in Dharamshala or around, a trek to Triund Hill is something you must not miss. The reason is, it is a moderate trek, even if it is for the first time you are planning to trek, you will not have any difficulty. The trail is beautiful and there are amazing plants and trees to help you uplift your mood and energy. It doesn’t matter how long you take to reach the top, but when you are up there you will feel amazing. The view from the Hill top is magnificent with 360 degree view of the mighty Dhauladhars and the sky looks so beautiful and at night it is enchanting. It is a sublime experience which you must have. Plus at night, when you look down, you can see the entire town gleaming with lights, and that makes your trek worth.
I will not say that I am any Triund or trekking expert. However I have done this trek thrice. I have my experience which I would like to share with you and if you are planning a trek solo, with friends, family or anyone, or if you are just curious about Triund, you will get to know quite a lot from my side.
So, it was 2015, when I planned for Triund along with two other friends. I was novice at that time about Triund and we spent a lot of extra money during the trek. For the other two treks I preferred a trekking company and it was a wise decision. As I came across a lot of local stories of the place and I enjoyed it more than my first visit.
My trek began from Galu. There is a small check point at Galu where you have to register yourself. It is free of cost. While my trek guide was filling the formalities, I sneaked out and enjoyed a cup of ginger lemon honey from Thapu Dai’s chai shop. He is a man with a lot of stories and he likes to discuss a lot about politics and sports. He has some old books for sale and I bought a couple of them while returning.
The hike from Galu to Magic view cafe (which is the middle of trek) is easy with a little gradient and the trail is really beautiful. At some places there are small boulders and if you are tired you can take a small break. I reached Magic View in one and a half hour and it was a beautiful walk with the smell of flowers making it refreshing and the trees giving shade whenever I felt the heat.
Magic View is a small café as I already mentioned. It was built in 1984 and it is the oldest chai shop of the trail and taking a break at this small and cosy place is is nice idea. You can have lemonade, chai, green tea, coffee, maggi, bread omelette, chocolates, energy drinks, cigarettes, and other trek essentials like walking sticks, woolens, gift items etc. from this place. Also, the view from the porch of the café is mesmerizing.
The trail from here takes a better gradient and there are rocks on the way which made me little tired. The route was zig zag and there was no place to sit and relax so I kept on walking, until I came across a beautiful boulder on my left. I fell in love with it and I named it “Shivee Boulder”, because it is pretty and it has enough space to lie down and relax or have a quick nap (I love to do that).
Also Read: Shrikhand Mahadev- A heavenly Himalayan trek
Thank God, I came across that boulder and relaxed, because after that the altitude was increasing and I was really tired, until I saw a dry waterfall. My guide told me that it was the underground waterfall which makes the Bhagsu waterfall. During monsoons, the level of water increases and it becomes a small stream on the dry nallah. Plus during winters there is a lot of snow on it.
Soon we crossed it and there started the real walk. We had 22 curves to walk. I was actually tired and wanted to rest, but my guide encouraged me. He started telling me stories related to the trek. He told me about that one dangerous curve from where some tourist guy fell down while taking a selfie. He also told me about his experiences like, once while coming down from Triund he found an iPhone and apple watch. He named that place iPhone point. He returned the things he found to the owner from Delhi and till date they call him and send groups for Trekking. He was so happy while telling me his tale of honesty, I could see real happiness in his eyes (Himachali people are honest)
He was talking to me while an Indian trekker from Rishikesh stopped me and took a selfie with me. He was so impressed with me because I was carrying a huge backpack (and it was really heavy). He told me that he had seen girls walking up with just their purse and still cribbing and crying. His trek partner was a foreigner from Spain and she was equally impressed. I was on cloud nine and trust me, this motivated me and I climbed non stop till the last tea shop where the 22 curves end.
There I met Ella, a beautiful German Shepherd. She was really graceful. At that chai shop I had some water, chai and tried to play flute, and I was really bad at it. The only tune I can play on a flute is a Garhwali song “Bedu Pako”. May be I was breathless or tired or still on cloud nine, I couldn’t do it.
It was about to rain, so my guide asked me to start again. In five minutes I was on the top of Triund and it was a great feeling. The moment you reach the top, you can see a shack which is run by a guy named Kalu. He makes a nice bonfire and people like to sit there for exchanging their experiences and free music. I enjoyed the bonfire but didn’t stay at his place because there was something better.
Baisakhi Chacha: The Mountain Man
Baisakhi Chacha, I call him mountain man. He is serving at the Himachal Pradesh Forest Guest House located at Triund Hill since last 35 years. At first when I met him, he looked little occupied with his work and we hardly spoke for a couple of minutes. So, I broke the ice and started the conversation. “Chacha, Chai milega kya?” He looked at me, smiled and went to the kitchen. At tea we discussed a lot of things about mountains and he told me many stories related to his experiences with various trekkers from the past.
After tea we had a nice lunch which chacha made for himself, but he shared with me. He served me some wild mushrooms (Ban Bakri) with rotis. That was one great treat after the trek. Baisakhi chacha is a sweet person, however, when you will meet him for the first time you will be showered upon with stabbing words like, “Room nai hai. Pehle kyu nahi book karate. Sahib kabhi bhi bookings bhej dete hai. Sheher ja k book kyu nahi karate ho?”
When I asked him if he feels homesick, he replied in simple words that since last 35 years this is my home. I live here, the air, trees and climate of this place is like my family and I enjoy staying here. He can reach Triund top from Galu in 35 or 40 minutes, if there is no one to stop him and ask questions, like how far it is from here, is there any shop around or is it difficult from here etc. Chacha hates talking to strangers, but if he is comfortable with you, you will get to know a lot of stories from his experiences. He wakes up really early in the morning to fetch water from churri, which is around half an hour walk from Triund and if he finds anyone mis using water, that person is in soup. Talking about family and life, he told me a very interesting stories from his native village and his life in Triund. His supernatural encounters during snow and when there is no one on the hill. He also shared some interesting incidents with trekkers, like, during the late 80’s when British travelers were frequent in Triund and one evening while going uphill he met a British woman who needed some help. Baisakhi chacha not only helped her but took the entire group safely to the top and served them with tea and quick snacks available. The British woman was really impressed with him and she proposed him to marry her and she was even ready to take her to England. Chacha was smiling while telling this story and when I asked him, “Aap kyu nahi gaye?” Shyly, he replied, “Merko uska bhasha nahi samajh aana tha, usko mera nahi. Bahar ke log alag hote hai na.” Apart from that we talked about many other things and he told me amazing stories about the place.
Last year, Government of Himachal Pradesh awarded Baisakhi Chacha for providing hospitality in Triund. Till date, whenever I feel my life is tough, I think about him and get my confidence back.
Best time for Triund Trek:
During January to March, Triund trek is not open because of the snow. If you want to enjoy natural splendor to the fullest, the best time for Triund trek is from April to May. However, it is mostly crowded during this time. September to mid-November is also a nice time for this beautiful trek. You should definitely avoid Triund during the monsoons because the rocks are slippery and the mud is slushy during this time. There is a high risk of slipping down the hill during rainy season.
Important details about the trek:
Trek Duration: It can be covered as a day hike. However, if you plan a stay during night, you will get a chance to see the beautiful and star studded sky and if you look down, you will see the dazzling lights of the town. I will recommend you to stay at least one night at Triund.
Trek distance from McLeod Ganj to Triund: The distance of the trek is 9 Km, but it is an old saying that, you cannot measure the distance of mountains in kilometers. It is the number of hours you take to reach the top.
Starting the trek: You can either start the trek from McLeod Ganj or Gallu. I prefer staying in Dharamkot for a night and taking a short walk to Galu. These days there are auto rickshaws and taxis available from Dharamkot to Galu. Auto rickshaw charges rupees 80, and taxis are available for rs 400.
Triund Altitude: 2842 mts.
Triund trek grade: Moderate
Accommodation: There is a Forest Guest House on the top of Triund, but you need to book it in advance otherwise you will not get a room. There are tents available on almost every shack of Triund. You cannot pitch your own tent there if you don’t have permission from the Forest Department, which you should take at least a day before the trek from Forest Office in Dharamshala town.
Triund trek essentials:
- People who trek often, know this already, however, if it is your first trek, you must carry a day sack, keep a small torch, first aid, tissue roll, water bottle, packed lunch, fruits, juice, camera and extra clothing as the weather of Dharamshala is unpredictable, it might rain or get colder than you expect, in the night.
- Good quality, ankle length, waterproof trekking shoes or sneakers which are comfortable. Wear good quality cotton socks and keep a pair of flip flops.
- For sun protection, you must apply sunscreen lotion, lip balm with SPF, sun glasses and hat.
- Wear comfortable cotton T-shirt and lose trousers. Also, keep a warm jacket with you.
Some quick tips:
- Be a responsible trekker and do not litter your waste. There are dustbins or huge bags available which are given by Waste Warriors, an initiative by Jodie Underhill to clean the mountains. All the shacks and shops have the waste bags available.
- Keep water bottle with you because there is no water source on the way and buying a bottle of packed water can cost you rs 40 to 60. You can refill water from the filters available at Magic View and other shops on the way by paying rs 20 for one liter.
- The way is laden with Rhododendron flowers, do not freak out and pluck the flowers or damage any other plants and trees. Let the beauty stay on the way.
- Do not disrespect local cultures and nature. Be friendly to other trekkers.
- If it is your first trek to Triund, hire local guide, they will make sure you get a tent to stay plus you will not have to worry about your meals. They will also take care of your safety and above all you will get to know a lot of local stories from the place. You can feel free to contact me to help you get a good guide.
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